At very high speeds, our existing knitting, embroidery, and serge stitching systems place a considerable pressure on threads. New threads are continuously being produced and every machine maker, embroidery designer, and digitizer seems to have their own thread product. Most of these threads operate well on most of our machines, but as more of our machines become computerized and the mechanics which function them become progressively secret, troubleshooting can be stressful and confounding when our threads break frequently, particularly when we try to squeeze in that last minute gift or add the completed topstitching specifics on a custom wool jacket.
Thread breaks troubleshooting steps:
1) Re-threading the string.
The thread direction is the first thing to check when a needle thread splits. Be sure to clip the thread through the spool before passing through the tension disks and pull the broken thread from the end of the needle through the machine. Do not pull the thread back through the discs towards the spool, as this may eventually wear important components, requiring expensive repair. Instead remove the spool thread and re-thread the needle according to the machine’s threading directions.
2) Modify your needle.
Even if your machine’s needle is brand new, needles may have small burrs or imperfections that break threads. Make sure that the needle is the correct thread size and type as well. If the needle’s eye is too small, the thread can be abraded faster, causing more frequent breaks. Also a smaller needle will make smaller holes in the fabric, which will cause more friction between the thread and fabric. Embroidery and metal needles are designed for special threads and are designed to protect them against extra stress. Try a new needle, a topstitching needle with a smaller pupil, a special needle, or even a larger needle for frequent breaks.
3) Be sure to pull up any needle thread that might have been pulled to the back of the embroidery after a break during the machine embroidery.
Sometimes the thread splits over the pin, dragging a long piece of thread to the underside of the embroidery. The next stitches will catch and tangle this thread, creating frequent thread breaks. When necessary, the computer should also be slowed down by stitching over a spot where the thread split earlier. Always search for thread nests of unidentified thread splits underneath the stitching on a sewing or embroidery machine.
4) Lower the tension of the needle thread and the speed of sewing.
Reducing the pressure and reducing the sewing pace will help, particularly with long satin stitches, metal or monofilament threads, and designs of high density. Sometimes it may be appropriate to reduce the needle pressure more than once.
5) Switch the sprocket.
The common literature does not mention switching the bobbin, but it can avoid repetitive splits of the needle string. Sometimes when bobbins get weak, particularly when they are pre-wound bobbins, they put more pressure on the thread of the needle, creating breaks. A bobbin may not be close to the end, but instead of struggling with endless thread breakage, it is worth changing out. In some systems it occurs more than in others. One problem with pre-wound bobbins is that the thread can be twisted around itself when they get down to the last few inches of bobbin yarn, allowing the needle thread to snap. When stitching proceeds, this knot can be necessary to sever the needle itself.
6) Check the path of the thread.
This is particularly valuable when it comes to serge problems. Make sure that the thread runs smoothly from the spool, to the discs or dials of tension, and to the needle. At some stage, the thread may have jumped out of its correct path, which may or may not be obvious. The fault here is often the hand of the take-up. This problem will be solved by rethreading. The thread can get snagged in many ways as well. Many threads may get wrapped around the spool pin and slip off the spool. If other threads are hanging nearby, the sewing thread can tangle. Threads may be stuck on dials, keys, sticks, needle traders, or sewing machine or serge sides. On servers, the subsidiary looped is a frequent offender, causing thread breaks in the upper looped as well as preventing proper formation of the upper looped stitches.
7) Seek another direction of the spool.
Many threads work better to feed from the top of the spool, some from the side of the spool, and some work better to position a small distance from the computer on a cone keeper. Another trick for twisted threads, mostly metallic threads, is to run them between the spool and the rest of the thread route through a Styrofoam peanut. This helps to make the kinks and twists that can be caught straighten, causing breaks.
8) Use the Support remedy for Sewer.
Adding a little Sewer’s Aid to the thread will allow it to run more easily through the system. A minor fall can also be applied to the needle occasionally. Be sure to keep this container apart from any adhesives or fray stop remedies, as if they were combined together, they would cause serious problems.
9) Switch to a different brand of cord.
Many computers are more sensitive to their thread than others. Several threads can operate in one computer, not in another, even when using high-quality threads. Get to learn and store on your computer that threads fit well.
10) It may be too old a line.
While some may suggest throwing away the spool, certain options are available. Another solution is to place it in a closed baggie zipper and store it for a while in the fridge. Furthermore, the thread could be used for less stressful purposes such as hand sewing, other thread embellishment techniques, tassels and twisted cords. Another technique to save as much thread as possible is to delete from the spool the top layer or two and then start again. Sometimes the top layer or layers may have been dried out, but there is still a good thread underneath and the sewing will go easily when you get to it.
11) Change the type of thread or stabilizer.
The worst perpetrator is sticky stabilizers, but some stabilizers can cause further thread breakage. Holding the needle clean from sticky build-up or removing the needle often will aid if the problem is caused by sticky stabilizer. Coarser or finer fabrics for weaving can also induce more abrasion and snap more threads. A different type or product of thread may hold up better.
12) Reduce density of design.
Not all models, even from the same agency, are digitized with the same value. Many firms hire several digitizers, so in other aspects their models may not always be compatible. Intentionally, some designs have a high stitch density, in which case lowering the machine speed may be the best option to avoid breaking the thread. Other designs do not require their high density, or the situation may warrant a less dense design, in which case the design density editing can improve the design performance.
13) Power off the computer for about 30 seconds, and power it on.
This can be annoying, as it is not easy to get back to the same stitch in the embroidery where the computer was before on some computers, but this means removing the working memory of the system will address certain unexplained issues. If the model has been put in a specific location in the net, make sure to write down the exact position before switching off the computer. Many systems will also show the number of stitches, which is also good to note. This is a great time to use this feature if a computer will recall where it left off.
14) Return tomorrow.
Even though it’s easy to throw out the thread and want to throw out the computer as well, occasionally, whether it’s the heat or earth alignment, stepping away from the machine and then returning the next day and re-threading will work miracles. A thread that today wouldn’t sew properly could look beautiful tomorrow.
Repeated thread breakage for any machine embroiderer is one of the biggest challenges, and it seems inevitable that the earlier the task date, the more threads break. Getting many troubleshooting steps to try will make the difference in wasting four exhausting hours on a one-hour task, or in a reasonable amount of time making a stunning embroidery.